When discussing the intricate world of horology, one of the most fascinating yet often overlooked components of a watch movement is the jewels. For watch collectors, enthusiasts, and anyone that just likes to wear watches, understanding the role of jewels is pivotal to grasping the mechanics of timepieces we place on our wrists every day.
What Are Jewels And What’s Their Role In A Watch Movement
In the context of watchmaking, jewels typically refer to synthetic gemstones, most commonly rubies, that are strategically placed within the movement of a watch. These jewels serve crucial functions due to their unique properties. While natural gemstones are beautiful, synthetic alternatives are favoured in watchmaking because they are manufactured with fewer impurities, ensuring consistent performance.
Jewels function primarily as bearings for various moving parts within a watch mechanism. They reduce friction between metal components, leading to increased accuracy and longevity of the movement. Without jewels, metal parts would wear down significantly faster, leading to decreased efficiency and necessitating more frequent repairs. The critical advantage of using jewels is their hardness and low friction coefficient, allowing for smoother movement and better timekeeping precision.
Why Do We Use Rubies
While a variety of gemstones could theoretically be used in watch movements, rubies dominate the field for several reasons. Firstly, rubies are exceptionally hard, rated at 9 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, just below diamonds. This hardness translates to durability, enabling rubies to withstand the wear and tear associated with the constant movement and friction found in watch mechanisms.
Moreover, rubies are chemically inert, meaning they won’t corrode or degrade over time. This property is essential to maintain a watch’s accuracy over years of regular use. They also offer a stunning visual appeal, which aligns with the craftsmanship associated with high-quality timepieces.
Understanding the Importance of Jewel Count
The number of jewels in a watch movement is often a point of discussion among collectors and watch enthusiasts. Generally, the more jewels a movement contains, the more complex it is, reflecting the sophistication of its engineering. Basic movements might use around 15 jewels, combining functionality with economy. However, more complex watches can have 25, 30, or even more jewels, particularly those featuring complications such as perpetual calendars or chronographs.
Each additional jewel not only serves to reduce friction but can also allow for enhanced accuracy and functionality. For example, many luxury watches employ extra jewels to ensure precise coordination among intricate parts, improving overall performance and reliability.
Conclusion
For both new watchmakers and seasoned collectors, understanding the role of jewels in watch movements is essential. These small yet mighty components play a vital role in the mechanics of timekeeping, influencing the longevity, precision, and performance of a watch. The choice of rubies as the preferred gemstone further highlights the beauty found in the intricacies of horology. As the watchmaking community continues to evolve, recognising the significance of these tiny jewels will deepen appreciation for the art and science of crafting timepieces. Whether you’re just starting out or are a seasoned expert, the knowledge of how jewels function within the world of watches is invaluable in enhancing any collector’s insights or a maker’s craftsmanship.
How many jewels does the watch your wearing today have and will you review the jewel count a bit more now due to what you have learnt today?