What’s new with the Omega Speedmaster 38?
Omega hasn’t reinvented the Speedmaster. It has simply made the 38 look much more like the watch most of us picture when we hear the name.
The previous oval subdials have been replaced by traditional round registers, the dial is cleaner, the bezel is wider and the famous Dot-Over-Ninety detail has returned to the tachymeter scale.
There’s also a five-link, Moonwatch-inspired bracelet.
Individually, they’re relatively small changes. Together, they give the Speedmaster 38 a much stronger identity.
It finally feels like a smaller Speedmaster rather than simply another Omega chronograph.
Is this the modern Speedmaster Reduced?
If the black version looks familiar, there’s a reason.
It has obvious similarities to the Speedmaster Reduced, the smaller automatic Speedmaster introduced in 1988 that has since developed its own following among collectors.
The new 38 isn’t a reissue, but the comparison is difficult to ignore. Black dial, black tachymeter bezel, three round subdials and compact proportions all give it that familiar look.
And if you’ve always loved the Moonwatch but found 42mm a little larger than you’d like, this suddenly becomes very interesting.
This isn’t just a smaller Moonwatch
There is one important distinction.
The Speedmaster 38 is automatic.
Six of the seven new references use Omega’s Co-Axial Calibre 3330 and include a date, while the black no-date version uses the Calibre 3332.
The Moonwatch Professional, of course, remains manually wound.
For purists, winding a Moonwatch is part of the experience. For everyone else, an automatic Speedmaster you can put on and get on with your day might actually be more appealing.
Is 38mm the sweet spot?
Possibly.
The new Speedmaster measures 38mm across and just under 45mm lug-to-lug, although at 14.75mm thick it still has plenty of presence.
And that’s important.
Smaller doesn’t have to mean less watch.
We’re seeing renewed enthusiasm for vintage proportions and watches around the 36–39mm mark, and perhaps collectors are simply realising that a luxury watch doesn’t need to dominate your wrist to feel substantial.
The Speedmaster 38 fits perfectly into that shift.
Which Speedmaster 38 would I choose?
There are seven new references, ranging from steel models to steel-and-gold and diamond-set versions.
But I’d take the black no-date model.
Easily.
It’s probably the safest choice, but it’s also the one that feels most authentically Speedmaster. The matte black dial, black aluminium bezel, white hands and indexes give it a wonderfully clean appearance without trying too hard.
Sometimes the obvious choice is obvious for a reason.
Should you buy the 38 instead of a Moonwatch?
That depends on what you actually want from a Speedmaster.
If you’ve always wanted the Moonwatch for its history, manual movement and connection with space exploration, I’d still buy the Moonwatch. Its story is part of what makes it special.
But if you simply love the Speedmaster design, I’d absolutely try the 38 before deciding.
It’s smaller, automatic and easier to wear on a wider range of wrists, while the redesign brings it much closer to the classic Speedmaster look.
Neither is better.
They’re just different answers to the same question.
Has Omega got it right?
I think so.
The Speedmaster 38 already existed, but this redesign gives the collection something it arguably lacked before: a clearer connection to the wider Speedmaster family.
Round subdials, a cleaner dial, stronger bezel and Moonwatch-inspired bracelet might not sound revolutionary, but they don’t need to be.
The result is a watch that feels familiar without simply copying the Moonwatch.
And the timing couldn’t be better.
Not everyone wants a 42mm chronograph. Not everyone wants to manually wind their watch. And increasingly, not everyone believes bigger automatically means better.
At 38mm, Omega might have found the sweet spot.
Find your Omega
The new Speedmaster 38 is the latest chapter in one of watchmaking’s most recognisable families, but there are decades of brilliant Omega watches to discover.
Because the right watch size isn’t the one the trend tells you to buy.