Sometimes it’s the smallest changes that make a watch interesting.
Grand Seiko has just recently unveiled the SBGW325, a 37.3mm manually wound watch with a deep navy dial, traditional indigo-dyed strap and something we don’t see particularly often from the brand: large numerals at 12, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10.
And they’re not simply there to make the watch look different.
They’re a nod to a Grand Seiko from 25 years ago.
Why has Grand Seiko brought the numbers back?
To understand the SBGW325, we need to go back to 2001 and the Grand Seiko SBGW003.
That watch was significant because it housed the calibre 9S54, the first manually wound movement in Grand Seiko’s modern 9S mechanical family. It also featured the distinctive numbered dial that has now inspired the new SBGW325.
Rather than creating a direct reissue, Grand Seiko has taken those details and given them a modern update.
The new watch gets a deep navy dial inspired by traditional Japanese indigo dyeing, with raised silver-coloured numerals and a small touch of gold from the seconds hand and GS logo.
It’s unmistakably Grand Seiko, but with a slightly different personality.
37.3mm feels exactly right
Another thing I like about this watch is the size.
The stainless-steel case measures 37.3mm across, 44.3mm lug-to-lug and 11.7mm thick. Considering how much we’ve talked recently about smaller watches making a comeback, it feels very well timed.
But I wouldn’t want this watch to be bigger.
It’s simple, elegant and worn on leather. 37.3mm suits it.
The strap deserves a mention too. Grand Seiko says it’s produced using traditional Japanese hon-ai natural indigo dyeing, giving it a rich blue colour that works beautifully with the dial.
You have to wind this one yourself
Inside is Grand Seiko’s calibre 9S64, a manually wound mechanical movement with approximately 72 hours of power reserve.
And yes, you have to wind it yourself.
I actually think that’s part of the appeal.
We spend so much time looking for convenience in modern watches that there’s something rather enjoyable about a watch that simply tells the time and asks you to interact with it every few days.
Pick it up. Wind it. Set the time. Put it on.
For the right watch, simplicity can be part of the luxury.
There’s just one problem
The SBGW325 is limited to 600 pieces worldwide, with the watch due to arrive as early as next week!
In the UK, Grand Seiko has priced it at £5,000.
We’ve talked before about whether the industry has become too obsessed with limited editions, so I’m not going to pretend that making only 600 automatically makes this watch more desirable.
The better question is simple:
Would I still want it if it wasn’t limited?
In this case, yes.
Would I spend £5,000 on one?
This is where things become interesting.
At £5,000, there are plenty of watches competing for your wrist. You can start looking at pre-owned Omega, Tudor, TAG Heuer and plenty of other Grand Seiko models.
The SBGW325 isn’t necessarily the obvious choice.
But maybe that’s exactly why I like it.
Most people outside watch circles probably won’t recognise it. There isn’t a famous sports-watch silhouette or an instantly recognisable badge doing all the work.
Instead, you’re getting a compact, manually wound watch with an unusual dial, beautiful finishing and a genuine connection to Grand Seiko’s mechanical history.
Sometimes that’s more interesting than buying the obvious watch.
Is the Grand Seiko SBGW325 worth getting excited about?
I think so.
The numbered dial catches your attention, the indigo colour keeps you looking, and the 37.3mm case feels perfectly suited to the watch.
Most importantly, Grand Seiko hasn’t simply changed the dial for the sake of being different. It’s gone back to a watch from 25 years ago and found a thoughtful way of bringing that design into 2026.
Would I prefer it wasn’t limited to 600 pieces? Probably.
Would I like one on my wrist?
Absolutely.
Have a look yourself at the SBGW325 on the Grand Seiko website here
At The Watch Experts, we’re big believers that the most interesting watch isn’t always the most obvious one. From modern favourites to discontinued references, sometimes looking beyond the usual choices is where collecting becomes really interesting.
Browse our latest pre-owned luxury watches and see what catches your eye.